A visitor from Baltimore brought a bottle of Maryland wine
from Black Ankle Vineyards, a biodynamic, sustainable vineyard in Mt. Airy.
Rolling Hills is a blend of 83% merlot, and the balance of malbec, syrah, and
cabernet franc. The result is a merlot with welcome grace notes.
The wine in the glass was opaque purple, with medium acidity and tannin, and a medium-full body—and an explosion on the palate of blackberry and black plum, blueberry preserves, and a briar and toasted walnut undernote. Eighteen months in 80% new French oak clearly appeals to the New World palate, but the cedary note acts as a spice to the lush fruit of the wine rather than dominating it.
The winery is able to ship to only a handful of states, but this high-quality wine could prompt a “research trip” for further tasting—stay tuned.
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