California has claimed Petite Sirah as a beloved native grape, but in fact this grape is a French import known as Durif, now all but abandoned in the Rhône Valley where it originated. The apparent reference to Syrah in the name is not coincidental: Syrah is one of the parents of Petite Sirah (the other is the obscure Peloursin) and the petite in the name refers to the size of the grape berries—definitely not the mouthfeel of the wine.
At the risk of oversimplifying, I find two general styles as I taste these wines. One capitalizes on the hugeness of Petite Sirah, resulting in a wine with incredibly rich blackberry fruit and full body, high alcohol, and often high tannins. The second style seems to tame the grape a bit, focusing on a balance of structure with subtler fruit, some of the black pepper element that comes from the Syrah lineage, and more finesse overall.
Dancing Coyote Petite Sirah (Clarksburg; $20): A Petite Sirah of the bold variety—super-full body, lush blackberry fruit, and surprisingly soft tannins.
David Bruce Petite Sirah Central Coast ($19): Bruce calls this a “Petite Sirah made by a Pinot Noir lover,” and it does show a subtler fruit, with medium body and well integrated oak.
Foppiano Petite Sirah Russian River ($19): Big and bold (over 15% alcohol) and bursting with fruit. Mouth-filling.
Guglielmo Winery Petite Sirah Reserve (Santa Clara Valley; $20): Lighter in body than some, with a berry-vanilla flavor followed by some serious oak.
Comments