Water Into Wine

In an interview of Cameron Diaz in a fashion magazine I perused a few days ago, the writer mentions that Diaz adds ice cubes to her white wine as they sit talking at Gemma on the Bowery. The comment seemed meant to suggest that Diaz takes a relaxed approach to life, that she doesn’t get hung up on rules. This made me wonder about the rest of us: Why don’t we put ice in white wine? Are we hung up on some outmoded rule?  

Adding ice to a drink has two results: it chills the drink, and it dilutes it as the ice melts. Chilling is often desirable for more than its refreshing effect. In cocktails, for instance, a chill inhibits your perception of “heat” from the high alcohol. In wine, high alcohol is not an issue, but heavily chilling a wine can cover a multitude of winemaking sins. (Someone brought plonk to your party? Chill the heck out of it and then serve—it will be refreshing, and too cold to taste much.) Still, this is easily done with 20 minutes in the freezer—no ice necessary.

Some whisky drinkers order their whisky with water or a single ice cube because they feel the slight dilution opens the drink to their senses, allowing them to perceive enhanced aromas through the alcohol. Diluting wine, on the other hand, can be taboo. If you were drinking a fine white Burgundy, for instance, you wouldn’t want to dilute its subtle nuances with meltwater (although, see Dr. Vino’s recent post on this subject). Sometimes the goal is a practical one, though: Infrequent drinkers of white wine and rosé often ask for ice (or a spritzer) to intentionally dilute the drink and delay the effect of the alcohol.

I suggest we take a cue from Cameron and update the rules. Today, the vast majority of white wine sold in the U.S. is inexpensive and meant to be opened within a year of the vintage. Much of it is made in huge plants, like any other popular beverage. Why shouldn’t we treat it like one and toss in a few cubes? The straw is optional.