The Aromatics: Easy on the Nose

Following my aroma safari at Longwood Gardens, I’ve been thinking about how difficult it can be to identify the aromas in wine. Perfume’s entire purpose is its aroma, and its smell consists of intentional layerings of pure aroma compounds. Wine’s aromas are subtler, indirect, sometimes almost figments of the imagination.

Still, there are certain varieties of grapes whose aroma compounds are particularly noticeable and show up consistently in that variety—the aromas practically define your experience of that grape in the form of wine. Referred to as the aromatic varieties, they are most often white grapes, although a few black types qualify. Most of the characteristic aromas could be described as floral, grassy, or fruity, and they’re all quite easy to smell—they’re the perfumes of the wine world. If you’re an aroma junkie who likes a strongly scented white, or if you like Riesling or Sauvignon Blanc (perhaps the best-known aromatic grapes), read below for profiles of six more white grapes to add to your aromatic arsenal.

Viognier (vee-oh-nyay) The classic grape of the French appellations of Condrieu and Château Grillet, Viognier is also available in more affordable bottles from the southern Rhône region of France, and from California and Australia. It feels full and luxurious in the mouth, and has lovely ripe apricot and white flower aromas (think honeysuckle, or even a light jasmine).

Gewürztraminer (guh-voortz-truh-mee-nur) This “white” grape actually has pink skin and typically produces a deeply gold-colored wine that, like Viognier, feels thick and full in the mouth. Some examples are noticeably sweet. The classic Gewürztraminer aroma is of the tropical fruit lychee, plus a heavy rose perfume. The grape is most often grown in cool areas—look for Gewürztraminer from Alsace in France, the Alto Adige region of northern Italy, Germany and Austria, and Washington State.

Grüner Veltliner (grooner velt-lee-nur) Grüner means “green,” and wine from this grape has a distinctive greenish tint to its color, and often a tingle of carbon dioxide on your palate. It is a bit restrained in its aroma compared to the other grapes listed here, and its character is less floral and more spicy—the typical aroma is said to be white pepper. It is grown almost exclusively in Austria.

Albariño (al-bar-een-yo) produces rich, peach-scented wines in Galicia, in northwest Spain; in northernmost Portugal, where it is called Alvarinho; and in California and Australia. Try it if you like Riesling.

Muscat (moose-cot or muss-cot) This is a family of grapes, grown all over the world, that produces wines that range from totally without sugar (dry) to intensely sweet. The most highly regarded variety of Muscat is Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, but even this has as many different names as it has styles. Muscat Blanc, or White Muscat, has a heady aroma of orange-flowers and spice. Sweet Muscats are perhaps the easiest to find: Look for examples called Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise and Muscat de Rivesaltes from France, or the famous Muscats of Greece or Australia, or go to northern Italy for Moscato d’Asti, a lightly sweet, fizzy wine. For an excellent dry Muscat, try Jorge Ordoñez “Botani” Moscatel Seco (Spain), $22. 

Torrontés (tor-ohn-tace) One of the many varieties of Muscat is one of the genetic parents of Torrontés, the most widely planted white grape in Argentina. It is quite different from Muscat, though, with a livelier, fresher floral scent, and it is not used for sweet wine—just popular, affordable dry whites.

Top: “White flowers” is a catch-all descriptor for white wine, and may include jasmine (pictured), lilies, narcissus, citrus blossoms, and others.

Above: Lingenfelder “Hare Label” Gewürztraminer (Germany), $15, is a good and affordable example.