Let's face it: A lot of rose wines are created for the light, casual eating of summer rather than the more serious gourmandism of other seasons. If these roses were people they would be Paris Hilton or one of her sidekicks--entertaining maybe, but ultimately not much going on in there. Many have a flavor of strawberry bubblegum, and should be served cold and refreshing. But there are serious roses, more like Dame Judi Dench, who has the range to appear (magnificently) in Pride and Prejudice AND the latest James Bond flick. This Rioja rose is one of those.
Here I need to confess a personal preference. Lopez de Heredia's wines are some of my favorites. I like the integrity of this producer, which has been in business since 1877, is still family owned and operated, is practicing organic, and releases its wines only after years in cask and years of bottle aging--when the wine is ready to be consumed. These wines are not crafted with Parker scores in mind; they're made pretty much 
the way they have been since 1877, in a style that may seem unmodern to the hi-tech palate. In other words, you might not like them. If you want to try an uncommon style of rose, though, or if you're interested in how a wine tastes after aging, look for a bottle of R. Lopez de Heredia "Vina Tondonia" Rioja Rose. The current vintage is 1997.
The first thing to notice about this rose is the vintage--ten years ago. Unlike most roses, which are dated one or two years ago, this one was aged for four years in barrels, then another five or so in bottles. With all that costly time and attention behind it, it seems amazing that this wine is only $23. Even from the first sniff, you can find the signs of age: a nutty, roasted almond aroma a bit like that of sherry. The aroma of rosehips (or think of dried rose petals) carries through to the palate, where there's also a note of bitter greens, such as kale, and unripe raspberry. The finish is creamy, and the roasted almond flavor lingers. It is a sophisticated wine that should be an option all year round, rather than making a guest appearance only in summer, like most roses.
It is made from three of the standard Rioja grapes: tempranillo, garnacha (grenache), and viura. There are other Rioja roses out there, but this one is not just for picnic food. I drank it with a layered salad of heirloom tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, and ribbons of basil, and it also matched beautifully with the earthiness of dry-sauteed Belgian white carrots from the farmer's market, with some oil-cured black olives thrown in. Herb-roasted chicken was also nice, but a sweet barbecue sauce would overwhelm the wine's subtle nuttiness. Or, try it with the recipe for Whole Wheat Spaghetti with Chard, Cannellini Beans, and Broiled Grape Tomatoes that can be found on the excellent food blog www.avenuefood.com. This wine will shine at a grown-up Labor Day lunch, and continue on into autumn, holding its own with late-season market vegetables and poultry.
The details
Producer: R. Lopez de Heredia
Location: Rioja region of Spain
Wine: Vina Tondonia Rioja Rosado
Vintage: 1997
Price: $23
Source: New Yorkers can pick this up at Astor Wines or at Crush on 57th Street. Non-New Yorkers, call the importer to find out who carries the wine in your area (Polaner Selections, 914-244-0505).
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